Pake Muu Perfection

If you are a frequent reader, you will probably have seen a post that I posted last week called Doodlebugging. If you missed it, you can still catch it here. 

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Doodlebugging

In it I mentioned the fact that I was having a Pake Muu made by the amazing Karen Harvey.

A what-a-muu?

For any of you that are asking the same question, A Pake Muu is a Polynesian/Asian crossover which was made popular in the 1940’s by Alfred Shaheen.

Taking inspiration from a Chinese Cheong-Sam and adding Hawaiian influences, Pake Muus usually feature a high collar, frog closures and long split sleeves.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Pake Muu Style

Pake-Muus tend to have a specific styling; a vibrant patterned material with a plain colour inside the split sleeves. This was something that Alfred excelled in, using traditional Polynesian patterns, bark cloth and even employing his own artists to create a multitude of indigenous designs.

Now, I have wanted a Pake Muu for the longest time. I absolutely loved every one I saw, but as with most vintage clothing I was unable to find one that went up to a large enough size to fit me.

Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Perfect Pake Muu

It was then that I saw a post on Facebook from the amazing, creative and brilliant Karen Harvey.

Now Karen is a fabulous seamstress that seems to be able to turn her hand to anything and so it was absolutely logical to ask her if it would be feasible to create a Pake Muu in my size.

Karen was absolutely positive that this would be possible and we had a couple of discussions about the concept. I was thrilled with what she suggested and decided it was ‘full steam ahead’

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Such pretty colours

All I needed to do was find/decide on a material that I would like the Pake Muu to be made of.

Therein lay a problem.

I am simply rubbish at making decisions.

Karen showed me a lot of different fabrics; palm trees, desert isles, koi carp… you name it and I looked at it. And I just couldn’t choose a single one that I like enough to have a dress made out of it.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Just so happy

Fast forward eight or so months and I still hadn’t made a choice. Thankfully Karen didn’t give up on me and every so often I would send her a picture or a link to a material to see if it was suitable.

Then, out of the blue, it happened.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

The sublime snood, too

Karen posted a picture on Facebook of some material that she had purchased for herself and I literally had to have it!

I have to admit though, it was totally out of my normal style. First of all, it was brown.

Brown is not something I choose to wear often (if at all). I used to have a stunning vintage style wide legged jumpsuit a few years back which unfortunately was ruined, but other than that, it just isn’t a colour I choose to wear.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

The Full Look

Add to the fact that this material had teal and a chartreuse colour in it and you could absolutely state that it wouldn’t be something I would ever choose, especially for a bespoke dress.

But I just loved it.

I messaged Karen and asked if it would be suitable for my Pake Muu and she was quick to reply that it was a perfect choice. She also mentioned that she had a stunning teal Duchesse satin that would be ideal for the inner split sleeves.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Double Split Sleeve

Karen already had my measurements and the pattern and set to work making a Toile; a basic muslin version of the garment which can be tweaked and altered accordingly.

I received the Toile a few days later and we had a videocall so Karen could see how it fitted and where there were issues. Scribbling notes down, Karen asked for a few close up details and made a rough estimate of how many inches things needed to be altered by.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Even the furniture matches…

Sending the Toile back to her, Karen then set about making the actual Pake Muu.

A few weeks later, Karen asked if I would be happy for her to send the almost finished article in the post for a final fitting. It was almost ready but she wanted to see it on me before she made the final finishing touches and embellishments.

I was excited to see the Pake Muu, yet nervous too. Had I chosen the right material?

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Perfect for me!

Trying on the almost finished article, I was absolutely blown away by what Karen had made and couldn’t wait for it all to be finished so I could wear it out.

Sending the Pake Muu back to her for the final finishes, I set about arranging and commissioning items to match Karen’s creation. This is just about when the Doodlebug project came into play too.

A few weeks later a package arrived and I eagerly ripped into it.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Polynesian Prettiness

And there was the Pake Muu of my dreams…..

A Perfect Look and a Perfect fit.

I was originally planning to wear it to Twinwood at the end of August, however I simply couldn’t wait and debuted it at a literary festival I was lucky enough to be invited to.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

Marvellous Moon-Shape

And it was both amazing to wear and received a lot of attention and compliments.

Of course, the Doodlebug Bag got a fair share too.

I have to admit that the Pake Muu of my dreams made every single one of those dreams come true and I cannot thank Karen enough. I am also looking forward to wearing it to another event soon.

Reinvintaged, Karen Harvey, Alfred Shaheen, Pake Muu, Polynesian Dress, Cheong Sam, Vintage Dress, Vintage Style, Vintage Repro, Made to Measure Dress, Vintage Made to Measure, Crochet Bag, Vintage Crochet Bag, Vintage Bag, Vintage Hair Snood, Bespoke Dress, Bespoke Bag, Bespoke Snood, Vintage Crafts

The Whole Shebang!

Twinwood!

Till next time

SPSG xxx

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